India’s tapestry of weaves tells a rich and beautiful story. Shimmering motifs on soft, glossy silks vie for attention against colourful hand-embroidered cottons. It is a pleasure to spread them out on a store counter, run our fingers through the fine, handwoven texture, and finally take home a piece of this incredible work of art. But behind each weave, is a weaver who puts in arduous and strenuous hours of activity for a nominal wage, often putting her health and life at risk. These occupational health hazards often go unspoken about, undiagnosed, and untreated until it is too late to reverse the situation completely.
According to a study conducted among Indian weavers by the University of Calcutta and Departmental Research Committee, University of Kalyani, 68 per cent reported that the lower back was affected, and 49.7 per cent reported that the arm was adversely impacted. This was followed by upper back problems faced by 44 per cent, knee problems faced by 38 per cent, shoulder issues in 39.4 per cent, wrist problems in 35.4 per cent and neck problems in 35.4 per cent. The severity of these issues was also tested. Around 2 per cent of the participants reported severe disabilities, 46 per cent reported moderate disabilities, and 52 per cent reported minimal disabilities. Says Dr Sanjay Shankar, an orthopaedic consultant, ‘Since weavers spend extended amounts of time sitting before a loom, bent over it awkwardly, using their arm to make intricate drawings. This leads to issues in the back, neck and arm – sometimes even in the knee. The first step is to create awareness and education in weavers. These potential problems can be avoided with small steps such as maintaining correct posture, doing stretching exercises regularly and resting the lower back at specific intervals. An ounce of prevention is definitely better than cure. Healthcare facilities should be provided with symptom recognition, early intervention and education on proper lifting and exercise. Props like supportive cushions and ergonomic furniture can also be provided. Weavers who are experiencing moderate to severe pain should immediately get themselves scanned and ensure a proper line of treatment after consulting a trained medical practitioner in the field.’
Another major issue that weavers face is respiratory issues. Twenty-two-year-old Asha Kutty, a third-generation weaver in Coimbatore has been involved in the textile business ever since she was a child. ‘Even when I was too young to weave, I was always around and involved in ancillary activities and assisting my mother and older sister. Our one-room weaving studio was badly ventilated with just a tiny window, and had just a small door. It was dusty and there would be cotton fibres flying everywhere. As a result, I developed childhood asthma when I was around four or five years old. The doctors said I would outgrow it, but even now I suffer severe attacks because of the working conditions of my childhood, and require the assistance of an inhaler to normalise my breathing.’
Asha is just one of the many weavers who suffer from respiratory ailments such as asthma and bronchitis. This is caused by the working conditions, but another major cause could be the reactive dyes that are also highly carcinogenic and could cause lung cancer. Lower respiratory disease is especially common in workers who are engaged in the dyeing of handlooms, and this could lead to other more serious issues. Ensuring safe and clean work environments as well as the use of certified, non-toxic dyes can go a long way in protecting weavers from the side effects of the materials used.
Handloom weaving often doesn’t just stop at the loom. Artisans are also involved in embroidery, intricate embellishments, and fine zari work. All of this is often done in dimly lit rooms with bad lighting and can cause a strain on the eyes, as weavers try to focus on the finer and more delicate nuances of their craft. As a result, there are an increasing number of weavers with eye problems, which can even lead to visual impairment if left untreated. Providing brightly-lit work environments, magnifying glasses so that weavers don’t have to strain their eyes, regular eye checkups and treatment, should all be part of the health initiatives for weavers.
Handloom weaving is a centuries-old legacy in India that we need to preserve, and for it to be sustainable, the well-being and longevity of our weavers have to be ensured. Healthcare programmes and facilities should be implemented, especially for women weavers in remote and rural areas. With education, awareness, and policy changes at the micro and macro levels, we can create a more robust healthcare system for weavers.