At the Chettinad Heritage and Cultural Festival this year, Anavila’s latest collection, Payanam, offered a masterful tribute to the elegance and cosmopolitan essence of Chettinad. In Tamil, ‘Payanam’ translates to ‘journey,’ and this collection truly lives up to its name. Taking cues from the Chettiar merchants' travels and the architectural grandeur of Chettinad, ‘Payanam’ unravels a fabric story that bridges time, geography, and culture.
The Cultural Tapestry of Chettinad, Reimagined
Each piece in the ‘Payanam’ collection reflects a blend of the Chettinad mansions’ elegant aesthetics and the global travels of its residents. Picture a textile-inspired mosaic of European architecture, Burmese gemstones, and the iconic Athangudi tiles—all infused with motifs of yali (mythical beasts) and vibrant peacocks. The result? A nostalgic journey layered with grandeur, memory, and artistry.
For Anavila Misra, Payanam was born from a deep dive into Chettinad’s material culture and the travelogues of the Chettiar Merchants, drawing inspiration from the textures and colours alike. ‘We looked at the rich material library available across Chettinad mansions and the moodboard took us to places across Southeast Asia inspiring layers of techniques both in weaving and ornamentation,’ says Anavila.
Textile Innovation: Craft Meets Contemporary Wear
The collection’s foundation is built on hand-woven textures that experiment with yarns to create both bold monochromatic checks and intricate plain weaves. Using linen and metallic Zari yarns in perfect synergy, Anavila has designed textiles that are as much a nod to the grand blueprints of Chettinad mansions as they are a visual feast of colours inspired by the region’s landscapes. With South Indian borders and sari layouts reimagined, these textiles bring forth a festive spirit while delivering comfort and luxury.
The metallic elements in ‘Payanam’ lend a refined shimmer, creating subtle, clean silhouettes that still carry a festive punch. The collection’s range includes safari jacket sets and skirts influenced by traditional Dravidian drapes, seamlessly merging Chettinad’s rich aesthetics with contemporary design.
Jewellery That Celebrates Chettinad’s Heritage
The ‘Payanam’ collection also highlights jewellery by Meenu Subbiah, whose pieces beautifully complement Anavila’s textiles. Subbiah, a Chettinad local and founder of Meenu Subbiah Diamonds, creates exquisite pieces that capture the essence of temple motifs and traditional jewellery. Her designs add an authentic layer to ‘Payanam’, ensuring that each ensemble embodies both heritage and luxury.
Cultural Sustainability and Heritage Preservation
Collections like Payanam play a crucial role in weaving the crafts and stories of the past into today’s sartorial landscape. ‘There is a multi-fold impact of collections like Payanam, it not only puts the spotlight on the rich textile traditions of the region and its various aspects, it also pushes the envelope for cultural sustainability. The presentation at the venue that served as inspiration conveys rootedness and the audience travels back in time to immerse in the richness of the past. The collection takes cues from the material culture of the region and presents them with a strong message of connecting the future with the past,’ adds Misra. By seamlessly blending traditional artistry with contemporary design, Payanam ensures that Chettinad’s legacy continues to resonate, inspire, and evolve across generations.
