The sari is not just a garment; it is a cultural icon, a symbol of grace, and an enduring tradition that binds India together while celebrating its diversity. With over 100 ways to drape this unstitched piece of fabric, each region in India has its own distinct style, reflecting its culture, traditions, and way of life. Let’s take a journey across India to explore some of the most iconic sari drapes that tell the story of this timeless attire.
1. Nivi Drape (Andhra Pradesh)
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The Nivi drape is perhaps the most recognised sari style, popular across India and beyond. Originating in Andhra Pradesh, it involves pleats tucked neatly at the waist with the pallu (the loose end) draped over the shoulder. This versatile style works for everything from formal occasions to everyday wear, making it a modern favourite.
2. Nauvari Drape (Maharashtra)
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The Nauvari, or nine-yard sari, is a hallmark of Maharashtrian culture. Unlike the more common six-yard sari, the Nauvari is worn with the pleats at the back, resembling a dhoti, which offers ease of movement. Traditionally worn by women in rural Maharashtra, it has a unique blend of practicality and elegance.
3. Bengali Drape (West Bengal)
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Known for its simplicity and charm, the Bengali drape features wide pleats tucked at the waist and a pallu that is elegantly thrown over the left shoulder, often covering the torso. It’s commonly paired with red-bordered white saris, symbolising auspiciousness during festivals like Durga Puja.
4. Mekhela Chador (Assam)
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Though technically not a sari, the Mekhela Chador is Assam’s contribution to India’s tapestry of traditional attire. This two-piece garment—a skirt-like mekhela and a draped chador—is crafted from luxurious silks like Muga and Eri, showcasing intricate Assamese weaves.
5. Gujarati Drape (Gujarat)
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The Gujarati drape flips the Nivi style by bringing the pallu to the front over the right shoulder. This style, often seen on festive occasions and weddings, showcases the intricate designs on the pallu and is symbolic of Gujarat’s vibrant culture.
6. Kodagu Style (Karnataka)
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Hailing from the Kodagu district of Karnataka, this drape (also known as the Coorgi drape) is distinct for its pleats that are tucked at the back instead of the front. The pallu is pinned over the right shoulder, making it practical for women in the region’s hilly terrain.
7. Madisar (Tamil Nadu)
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The Madisar is a nine-yard drape worn by Tamil women, particularly during religious ceremonies. This style involves wrapping the sari around the body in a way that it resembles a trouser-like dhoti while maintaining the elegance of a sari.
8. Dhangad Drape (Goa)
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Similar to the Nauvari, the Kashta drape is another nine-yard style prevalent in Goa. It is functional and was historically worn by fisherwomen. The sari is tucked at the back and draped like a dhoti, reflecting the coastal state’s easy-going lifestyle.
9. Mohiniattam Drape (Kerala)
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The Mohiniattam drape is an iconic style associated with Kerala’s classical dance form of the same name. Traditionally, a white or off-white Kasavu sari with a gold border is used. The sari is pleated in front to allow ease of movement, while the pallu is draped over the shoulder, forming soft, elegant folds.
10. Kunbi Drape (Goa)
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The Kunbi drape from Goa is a traditional style worn by the Kunbi tribal women, characterised by its practical wrap tied securely at the shoulder. Made from handwoven cotton in vibrant checks, it reflects the simplicity and cultural heritage of Goa’s oldest inhabitants.
11. Bhootheyara Drape (Karnataka)
The Bhootheyara drape is a distinctive style worn by the Bhootha Kola performers in Karnataka. The sari is worn in a way that allows for dramatic expression and movement, with elaborate pleats and wraps that accentuate the performer’s larger-than-life persona. Bright, bold colours dominate the fabric, often complemented by heavy jewellery and ornate accessories.
12. Kotapad Drape (Odisha)
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The Kotapad drape from Odisha is crafted from organic, handwoven cotton dyed with natural colours derived from roots and leaves. Traditionally worn by the tribal communities of the region, this drape is completely hands-free and represents sustainable artistry and the deep connection between textiles and nature.
Why the Sari Endures
The sari’s versatility is unmatched. Whether it’s the heavily embroidered Banarasi drape for weddings or the simple cotton handloom for daily wear, the sari adapts to the needs and aesthetics of its wearer. Beyond fashion, it’s a medium of storytelling, a canvas for artisans to showcase their craft, and a bridge between generations.
Preserving the Legacy
In an age of fast fashion, the sari stands as a beacon of sustainability and cultural heritage. Initiatives to document and revive lesser-known drapes are gaining momentum, ensuring that this age-old tradition continues to thrive in the modern world.
Exploring the sari map of India reveals not just the beauty of this garment but the rich cultural fabric of the country itself. So, the next time you drape a sari, remember: you’re not just wearing a piece of cloth—you’re carrying forward a legacy.