Be it in the present, past and hopefully not in the future, women forever have been struggling to find pockets in their apparel to keep things at handy. For whatever the reason, pockets have not found their way to women’s clothing.
The little useless pockets we see on our trousers these days—or, gasp, phoney pockets—aren’t exclusive to the modern era. If there was a pocket to be found then, it was typically a discrete pouch tucked awkwardly beneath a dress, concealed somewhere between layers of chemise or petticoats and practically inaccessible. Eventually, a bright person began sewing pockets directly into clothing, but solely for men’s clothing. Consequently, clever women devised the chatelaine as a remedy for themselves!
Since women’s clothing came without any pockets, it did not account for the necessity of carrying these tiny yet essential items. Among the many versions that were manufactured, the broad belts were quite popular at the time which made a great platform for huge chatelaine hooks. To keep things handy at all times, women started to hang an increasing number and variety of household items from their belts.
This custom gave birth to a pretty yet functional piece of jewellery that is seen as the forerunner of the contemporary woman’s handbag! It wasn’t until the beginning of the 20th century when women began working away from their homes that chatelaines lost its popularity.
Chatelaine literally translates to ‘mistress of the chateau’ in French. From the 17th to the beginning of the 20th century, chatelaines were in vogue. The jewellery’s extended lifespan led to its appearance in a wide variety of styles, which followed fashion at the time. Simple rings with chains were utilised as early as the early Middle Ages, and they finally developed into incredibly detailed masterpieces. In those days, a typical woman’s chatelaine would have essential items such as keys, a pencil with a tiny ivory sheet to write on, purses, pomanders, vinaigrettes, scissors or sewing supplies.
The early 1900s saw a broad shift towards smaller chatelaines. The tops of the chatelaines were adorned with detachable brooches that were a fashion statement. The chatelaine was phased out at the start of the twentieth century, however seamstresses today still find them useful.
The notion that women don’t need to carry anything in their pockets stems from misogyny, of course. The thought had been that women don’t have to carry money or other necessities as their husbands would take care of those things while they are to stay at home and do women-appropriate tasks such as raising children and cooking. Thankfully, women with ingenuity and a strong hold on their personhood have been rebelling against these silly, ridiculous little restrictions for decades. Though they may not appear important, pockets, purses, and the chatelaine carry a history of feminine strength and defiance alongside all those little daily essentials.