Fashion, a powerful form of self-expression, has long been a mirror reflecting societal shifts and cultural evolution. Over the past decades, India has witnessed a remarkable transformation in the realm of fashion, especially when it comes to gender fluidity. This journey from rigid gender norms to a more inclusive and diverse approach has been an exciting one, marked by ground-breaking moments, influential icons, and trailblazing brands that have redefined the fashion landscape.
Rediscovering Cultural Relevance
While the modern movement towards gender-fluid fashion has gained momentum, it's essential to recognize that India's cultural history has long embraced gender-fluid clothing. Throughout history, Indian clothing has often transcended traditional gender lines, where silhouettes like the dhoti and sari defy gender norms, embodying a timeless fluidity of expression.
Image Source: iiad.edu.in
The graceful drape of the saree transcends binary labels, while the regal sherwani and flowing anarkali and angarakha celebrate a spectrum of identities. The pathani suit elegantly fuses masculine and feminine elements, reflecting a cultural equilibrium.
Image Sources: marasim.co, Pinterest/Buna
Modern designers like Raw Mango, Torani and NorBlack NorWhite revive these historical forms with contemporary twists, spotlighting inclusivity. These silhouettes tell a story of an accepting past and inspire an inclusive fashion future, where identity knows no bounds.
Image Courtesy: Instagram/norblacknorwhite
Image Courtesy- Rawmango.com
The 2000s: Breaking the Mold
As India stepped into the new millennium, the fashion scene began to witness bolder statements. Gender-fluid fashion was still in its nascent stage, but designers like Rohit Bal and Arjun Saluja dared to blur the lines, experimenting with androgynous elements within their collections as they launched their brands in the early 2000s. From Bal’s 2003 show which featured men on the ramp in lungis and sindoor, to Saluja’s signature sex-less unique silhouettes, gender-fluidity in fashion was seeing a rise.
Rohit Bal, 2003 show | Image Courtesy- rediff.com
Known for his avant-garde creations, Wendell Rodricks made a notable impact by showcasing a gender-fluid collection at Lakmé Fashion Week in 2007. His designs blurred the lines between masculine and feminine, opening the door for new conversations.
Wendell Rodricks, 2003 show | Image Courtesy- rediff.com
The 2010s: Bold Strides
The 2010s brought a paradigm shift in India's fashion landscape as the concept of gender-neutral clothing gained unprecedented momentum. This decade saw the emergence of several groundbreaking labels that defied traditional gender norms, reshaping the way fashion was perceived and worn.
One of the trailblazers, Bobo Calcutta, led the charge in the gender-neutral fashion movement. Founded by Ayushman Mitra, the brand's collections till today defy stereotypes and celebrate individuality. Bobo Calcutta's pieces are not confined by societal expectations, emphasizing self-expression beyond gender lines. Their unique blend of colourful and unapologetic designs resonates with those seeking authenticity and fluidity in their attire.
Bobo Calcutta | Image Source- Indulgeexpress.com
Anaam, meaning 'nameless' in Sanskrit, encapsulated the essence of androgynous fashion. Launched by Sumiran Kabir Sharma, the brand aimed to strip away gender labels from clothing. Their collections featured oversized silhouettes, deconstructed designs, and minimalist aesthetics. Anaam's appeal lay in its ability to cater to individuals seeking clothes that weren't limited by traditional definitions of masculinity or femininity.
Anaam, Lakme Fashion Week 2018 | Image Source: theluxurychronicle.com
NorBlack NorWhite, a Toronto-based label by Mriga Kapadiya and Amrit Kumar seamlessly blended traditional Indian textiles with modern cuts. Their collections often featured oversized, gender-fluid pieces that defied cultural and gender boundaries. By merging different cultures and embracing inclusivity, NorBlack NorWhite created a unique space in India's fashion scene.
NorBlack NorWhite | Image Source: lbb.in
Chola by Sohaya Misra shook up traditional norms with its 'anti-fit' philosophy. The brand challenged conventional silhouettes by creating loose, comfortable garments that celebrated individuality. Chola's pieces were characterized by fluid lines, layers, and gender-neutral aesthetics. It quickly became a favourite among those seeking to break free from traditional fashion norms.
Chola, Lakme Fashion Week 2018 | Image Source: theluxurychronicle.com
Ruchika Sachdeva's Bodice took a tailored approach to gender-neutral fashion. The brand's unisex collections featured structured silhouettes that were effortlessly fluid. Known for its attention to detail and quality craftsmanship, Bodice continues to appeal to those who seek a balance between traditional tailoring and gender inclusivity.
Bodice, India Fashion Week 2015 | Image Source: borderandfall.com
The 2010s also witnessed several red-carpet moments and celebrities who pushed the boundaries of gender norms through their fashion choices. Actress Sonam Kapoor made headlines with her androgynous looks, proving that style had no gender. Designer duo Shivan and Narresh launched their gender-fluid collection, "The New Intimacy," showcasing that luxury fashion could be inclusive. In another ground-breaking moment in 2017, Anjali Lama became the first openly transgender model to walk the ramp at Lakmé Fashion Week. Her presence was a turning point, challenging stereotypes and championing inclusivity.
Sonam Kapoor | Image Source: albawaba.net
The 2020s: A Bright Way Ahead
As we step into the 2020s, gender-fluid fashion in India is on the brink of a new era. With heightened awareness, progressive conversations, and a burgeoning community of designers and influencers, the path ahead is promising. Established fashion houses are incorporating gender-fluid elements into their offerings while emerging designers are fearlessly challenging norms.
In the 2020s, we've seen a surge of gender-neutral collections and campaigns from both established fashion houses and emerging labels. The concept of "genderless" or "unisex" clothing has been redefined to prioritise comfort, self-expression, and versatility. Oversized silhouettes, relaxed fits, and neutral colour palettes have become staples, blurring the lines between traditionally masculine and feminine aesthetics.
Shantanu & Nikhil, Image Source: Pinterest
Fashion weeks and runways around the world have witnessed a shift towards gender-inclusive presentations. Both national & international designers have embraced models of diverse gender identities, showcasing a range of styles that defy categorisation.
Image Source: Freepressjournal.in
Celebrities and influencers have played a pivotal role in driving this trend, using their platforms to embrace and promote gender-neutral fashion. Actors like Ranveer Singh and Babil Khan have been seen challenging societal expectations on the red carpet and inspiring their followers to do the same.
Babil Khan | Image Source: news18.com
Icons You Must Follow For Some Gender-Fluid Fashion Inspo
Anjali Lama: Pioneering Transgender Model
Anjali Lama made history as the first openly transgender model to grace the ramps of prestigious fashion events in India. Her journey from Nepal to the Indian fashion scene was nothing short of revolutionary. As an icon of gender-fluidity, Anjali's presence dismantled stereotypes and sparked conversations about inclusivity and representation.
Image Source: Instagram/anjalilama_official
Durga Gawde: Non-binary Artist and Activist
Durga Gawde, an artist and activist, is unapologetically herself. With a penchant for bold colours and eccentric silhouettes, Durga challenges gender norms through their fashion choices. Their ability to mix and match diverse elements, from sarees to unconventional accessories, has created a unique style that transcends labels.
Image Source: Instagram/durgagawdestudio
Rhea Kapoor: Filmmaker & Stylist
Rhea Kapoor, the producer and fashion icon, is a trailblazer for gender-neutral clothing. Her fearless fusion of traditionally masculine and feminine elements challenges norms and amplifies authenticity. Be it her statement oversized suits or unique indo-fusion ensembles, Kapoor showcases how fashion can empower and express individuality, inspiring a more inclusive approach to personal style. With her red carpet styling and genuine commitment to breaking stereotypes, Rhea Kapoor stands as a powerful advocate for diverse and boundary-free fashion.
Image Source: Instagram/ rheakapoor
Want to get your hands on the coolest gender-fluid fashion? : Here are some homegrown brands that will be your go-to!