In the vibrant tapestry of India's cultural heritage, traditional textile crafts have long been woven into the fabric of everyday life. From the colourful hues of Punja’s Khes weaving to the intricate embroidery of Himachal Pradesh's Chamba Rumal, each craft tells a story of centuries-old traditions and skilled craftsmanship passed down through generations. However, in the face of modernisation and changing consumer preferences, many of these age-old crafts faced the threat of extinction. Yet, against all odds, a revival is underway—a resurgence fuelled by a newfound appreciation for heritage, sustainability, and craftsmanship. This World Heritage Day, let’s explore five ways in which Indian textile crafts are experiencing a renaissance, from artisan cooperatives and sustainable fashion initiatives to designer collaborations. Through these revival efforts, we witness the enduring legacy of India's textile heritage and the power of community, creativity, and innovation to breathe new life into ancient traditions.
Craft 1: Himroo Weaving
Himroo weaving, originating from Aurangabad, Maharashtra, has a rich history dating back to the Mughal era. Traditionally, Himroo fabric was woven with a blend of cotton and silk threads, featuring intricate patterns and motifs. Once favoured by royalty and the elite, Himroo faced the threat of extinction in recent years, especially after facing a decline post-independence. However, a revival movement spearheaded by passionate individuals and organisations is breathing new life into this time-honoured craft.
Revival:
In recent years, initiatives aimed at reviving Himroo have gained momentum. One such endeavour is the Himroo Revival Project undertaken by LoomKatha, a social enterprise dedicated to empowering handloom weavers. The project aims to rekindle interest in Himroo by restarting defunct looms and training a new generation of weavers.
Designer Mamatha Tulluri has also played a part in the revival of Himroo. With a passion for handlooms and craftsmanship, Mamatha embarked on a mission to breathe new life into this age-old craft. Collaborating with Shailaja Ramaiyer, Mamatha sought out weavers with knowledge of Himroo weaving techniques. Through her label, Mamatha Tulluri's The Designer Studio, she aims to create a platform for weavers to showcase their talent and preserve their heritage. Today, Himroo is being used to create home linen as well as garments like shawls and jackets given its thickness and sturdy quality.
Image Source: rugrabbit.com, Instagram/loomkatha
Craft 2: Kunbi Weaving
In the vibrant tapestry of Goa's cultural heritage, the Kunbi sari stands as a testament to the rich traditions of the indigenous Kunbi community. Woven with simplicity and adorned with distinctive checkered patterns, the Kunbi saree reflects the ethos of a community deeply connected to the land. Despite facing challenges and the threat of obscurity, efforts led by artists and designers are bringing the Kunbi saree back into the spotlight, celebrating its legacy and honouring the artisans who have preserved this age-old craft.
Revival:
In contemporary times, the Kunbi saree has undergone a revival, with Kunbi saris resurfacing the fashion and clothing space. Designer Wendell Rodricks’ line of Kunbi saris was a fresh take on the craft as he infused different colours apart from the traditional red hues. Similarly, artist Clarice Vaz's recent exhibition, 'Ancestral Weave,' paid homage to the Kunbi community through art, showcasing the intricate beauty of the Kunbi saree print on canvas. Through her artworks, she highlighted the stories and struggles of the Kunbi tribe, shedding light on their contributions to Goan culture and identity.
Image Source: gaatha.com, livemint.com
Craft 3: Khes Weaving
Khes, a thick piece of cotton textile, once held a significant place in the homes and culture of Punjab. Used as a versatile object, it served as a bedcover, shawl, or back support, reflecting the resourcefulness of rural communities. The partition of India in 1947 dealt a severe blow to the tradition of khes weaving, particularly Majnu Khes, which was predominantly woven in western Punjab (present-day Pakistan). The migration of skilled weavers to West Punjab led to the abrupt halt of this weaving tradition, resulting in its near-obliteration on the Indian side of the border.
Revival:
The Khes Project and homegrown brand Balwaar are collaborating to revive the traditional craft of Khes weaving in Punjab with their collection 'Memoir.' Through this collection, they revisit traditional weaves, incorporate natural dyes, and collaborate with skilled woman weavers to create Khes pieces that capture the essence of Punjab's textile legacy. 'Memoir' offers a poetic symphony of shared memories and heartfelt craftsmanship, inviting individuals to experience the warmth of Punjab through reimagined designs.
Image Source: museumofmaterialmemory.com, Instagram/thekhesproject
Craft 4: Chamba Rumal Embroidery
Chamba Rumal embroidery is a centuries-old craft originating from the Chamba district of Himachal Pradesh. Traditionally, Chamba Rumals were intricately embroidered square cloths, featuring mythological motifs and floral patterns. However, with the decline of patronage and changing consumer preferences seen post-independence, this exquisite embroidery technique was at risk of fading into obscurity.
Revival:
Chamba, which was once essentially passed on as gifts or used as ceremonial coverings, is being given a fresh take. Initiatives like Rumals of Chamba are working directly with local artisans and creating contemporary interpretations of Chamba Rumal embroidery. Artisans are being engaged to sustain the craft, while new product ranges, including rumals, wall hangings, and apparel, are being created to provide new dimensions to the craft while preserving its traditional essence.
Image Source: sahapedia.org, Instagram/rumalsofchamba
Craft 5: Handwoven Khadi
Khadi, or hand-spun and handwoven cotton fabric, holds a special place in India's cultural heritage and freedom movement. Traditionally, Khadi was spun by hand using a charkha and woven into fabric on handlooms, symbolising self-reliance and resistance to British colonial rule. However, with the advent of mechanised textiles, Khadi production declined significantly. Today, however, the fabric and craft has seen a total turnaround, making one of the better-known and used handwoven textiles of the country.
Revival:
Today, government-sponsored Khadi initiatives and sustainable fashion brands are working to promote Khadi as a sustainable and eco-friendly fabric. By investing in Khadi production and promoting Khadi products both domestically and internationally, these initiatives are ensuring the continued relevance of this iconic Indian textile.
Find out more about Khadi here
Image Source: irp.cdn-website.com, Pinterest.com