Exfoliation has become a buzzword in the skincare industry, with its two forms, physical and chemical, frequently compared. While exfoliation promises to reduce acne and help with incredibly smooth skin, it's important to understand that all these benefits come with a caveat—moderation is key. Excessive exfoliation can not only irritate your skin but also harm your skin's protective barrier.
To shed light on this issue, we consulted Dr Varshini Reddy, dermatologist and founder, of Glow Clinic. She shares her expert insights on how to recognise when you've gone overboard with exfoliation and what steps to take for damage control.
Over-Exfoliation:
Exfoliation is the process of clearing your skin's pores, which helps enhance its texture. However, when done excessively, it can yield the opposite results. Dr Reddy explains, ‘Over-exfoliation occurs when we either use exfoliants more frequently than suitable for our skin or layer multiple exfoliating products.’
Understanding the Causes:
Every individual's skin is unique, and so are their exfoliation requirements. While some may comfortably exfoliate three times a week, others may only need it once a week. Attempting aggressive exfoliation in a bid to quickly improve skin texture can have detrimental consequences. She points out that over-exfoliation happens when you merge too many exfoliants, such as using an exfoliating toner along with a peel or an exfoliating serum. ‘This can cause damage to your skin's barrier while stripping away its protective lipid shield, resulting in issues like sensitivity, reactive skin, and excessive texture,’ she further explains.
Recognising Over-Exfoliated Skin:
That temporary translucent sheen you see on your skin post-exfoliation may seem promising, but it could indicate a damaged skin barrier. Dr Reddy elaborates, ‘Redness, bumps, dehydration, sensitivity and inflammation are all signals of over-exfoliation. These symptoms collectively make your skin highly sensitive, reactive and intolerant to other products.’
Culprits Among Ingredients:
According to Dr Reddy, ‘Common ingredients like AHA's and BHA's, such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and polyhydroxy acids, are vastly effective when used correctly. However, when used together with other active ingredients like retinols or hydroquinone often damages your skin barrier.’
Recovering from Over-Exfoliation
If you realise that you've over-exfoliated your skin, there's no need to panic. Dr Reddy provides a three-step guide to help your over-exfoliated skin recover:
• Simplify Your Skincare Routine: Avoid overwhelming your skin with too many products, especially those containing active ingredients, as they can exacerbate reactivity.
• Gentle Cleansing and Hydration: Use a mild cleanser, followed by a hydrating mist or essence. Incorporate a repairing or soothing cream into your routine. Plant-based face oils like sea buckthorn and squalene can aid in healing and restoring lipids in your skin.
• Long-Term Healing: While there's no quick fix, moisturizers with calming ingredients such as ceramides, niacinamide, centella asiatica, peptides, and botanical plant-based oils rich in omega acids can strengthen your skin's barrier and promote gradual healing.
Remember, patience and a gentle approach are key to nursing your skin back to health after over-exfoliation.