In the world of skincare, ’non-comedogenic‘ has become a buzzword, promising products that won’t clog your pores. But how reliable are these claims? For a clearer picture, we turned to Dr Kiran Sethi, a dermatologist renowned for her insights into skincare formulations. Here’s everything you need to know about non-comedogenic products and their real impact on your skin.
What Does Non-Comedogenic Really Mean?
’Non-comedogenic‘ essentially indicates that a dermatologist has examined the ingredients of a product to determine whether they are likely to clog pores. This label provides reassurance for those prone to acne, but it’s not a one-size-fits-all solution.
Are There Standard Regulations for Non-Comedogenic Products?
Interestingly, there are no official regulations or mandatory tests in India to certify a product as non-comedogenic. However, brands can opt to have their products tested and certified by external companies. This voluntary certification helps assure consumers, but it’s not a universally regulated standard.
How Accurate Are Non-Comedogenic Claims?
Dr Sethi explains that while non-comedogenic claims are largely accurate, they’re not foolproof.
- Ingredients might have a comedogenicity rating of 0-1, meaning they are very unlikely to clog pores. Yet, individual reactions can vary, and some people may still experience clogged pores.
- The way ingredients are processed can also affect their comedogenic potential.
- Fragrances often consist of hundreds of unnamed ingredients, making it difficult to fully assess their impact on pores.
- Clinical testing on products is typically conducted on 10-40 individuals, which is not representative of a diverse population like India’s.
Identifying Comedogenic Ingredients
Certain ingredients are more prone to clogging pores. For example:
- Butters like cocoa butter
- Waxes like beeswax
These can often be identified by checking the INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) list on the product packaging.
How Are Products Tested For Comedogenicity?
There are two common methods:
- Ingredient Review: A dermatologist signs off on the label after reviewing the ingredient list and Certificates of Analysis (CoAs).
- Clinical Testing: Products are tested on individuals to observe their effects, but the sample size is typically small.
Can Products Be Completely Non-Comedogenic?
Dr Sethi notes that while products may be labelled non-comedogenic, some individuals could still experience clogged pores. This is because:
- Ingredients might penetrate pores or form a thick layer on the skin, preventing it from ’breathing’.
- Products like tinted moisturisers and sunscreens with heavier formulations or higher oil content have a higher likelihood of clogging pores, even if labelled non-comedogenic.
Should You Rely Solely On Non-Comedogenic Labels?
Not necessarily. Dr Sethi advises:
- If you have dry skin and aren’t prone to acne, you don’t need to prioritise non-comedogenic products.
- If you have acne-prone skin, it’s crucial to consider non-comedogenic options but still evaluate individual products.
Common Misconceptions About Non-Comedogenic Products
One major misconception is that non-comedogenic products are guaranteed to prevent breakouts. Dr Sethi clarifies that while these products lower the risk, they aren’t immune to causing occasional zits, especially if other factors like makeup layering or improper cleansing come into play.